Category : Miscellaneous

Savoring Spirituality in Kathmandu

 

The sheltering canopy of Buddhism in Nepal becomes apparent with a few visits to monasteries scattered across the Kathmandu valley; indeed, you can immerse yourself in local handicraft stores selling Buddhist artifacts too. But a monastic tour is recommended to understand the influence of Buddhism and its seemingly limitless enchantment. There are no satisfactory guidelines to follow a Buddhist circuit in Nepal except that you pick a spot and randomly move on to the next. For pilgrimage tours, Nepal’s great reservoir of sanctity and solace produce a welcome note to almost any one for whom the ways of the Buddha are fascinating. Because it is in Nepal that prince Siddhartha was born who later became the Buddha, the enlightened one. From the colossal monasteries to small nunneries and gompas amidst pristine forests, the glory of the Shakyamunis and the Bodhisattvas are evident throughout this country. From Swayambhunath to Namobuddha and straight to the heart of Buddhism, Lumbini, the road to spirituality is as exciting as any adventure. It could well be defined as a quest to understand the philosophy of life and to discover yourself in the process. Monastic tours are a part of that quest, where we move into the unknown to known oneself. A Buddhist circuit is one where we visit monasteries to discover Buddhism’s vast significance on man’s soul and his deeds. You could visit Namobuddha; a place which is revered as a site where kindness and mercy were both personified by the Buddha by offering his body to be eaten by a hungry Tigress. Begin this trip from Boudhanath and then we move to Namobuddha and then to Pharping. End at Swayambhunath where the wise eyes of the Buddha bids you farewell only to further encourage you to begin your journey anew.

 

Boudhanath Stupa

Boudhanath is a massive Stupa which lies in the outskirts of Kathmandu, about 11 km away from the city centre. It is believed that this syupa was built by the Lichavis but many historians disagree on this fact. This dome shaped Stupa represents the mind of the Buddha and is today a popular pilgrimage destination for many Buddhists.

 

Kopan

The Kopan Monastery was established by Lama Yeshe and Lama Zopa Rimpoche in 1970 as a center of Buddhist Teachings. Kopan is a thriving monastery of 360 monks, mainly from Nepal and Tibet, and a spiritual oasis for hundreds of visitors yearly from around the world.

Pharping

This monastery is situated to the south of Kathmandu. It is believed that this is the spot where Guru Rimpoche (Saint Padmasambhava) attained level of a Mahamudra Vidyadhara. Some Buddhists also believe that this is the spot where Milerapa (the deity of hard work) took shelter in a cave one night.

 
Pharping has numerous monasteries and temples including an important Vajrayogini temple and the Palyul Retreat Centre, which is the residence of Khenpo Namdrol Rinpoche and home to the Rigpa Shedra.

 

Namobuddha

This monastery lies to the east about 45 km away from of Kathmandu. We will have to make a two hour drive to reach here. It is widely believed that the Lord Buddha during his 7th reincarnation offered his body to a hungry Tigress and its cubs. This is considered a great act of mercy and kindness and has ever since attracted millions of people to this spot.

 

Swayambhunath

This great temple is just on the outskirts of Kathmandu. No one actually knows who built it. Many believe that the Lichavis constructed it while others believe that emperor Asoka had already visited it in the 3rd century. The Swayambhunath complex consists of a giant Stupa, a large ensemble of shrines and temples, and also includes a Tibetan monastery, a museum and a library. This site has two access points: a long stairway, claimed to have 365 steps, leading directly to the main platform of the temple, which is from the top of the hill to the east; and a car road around the hill from the south leading to the southwest entrance. The first sight on reaching the top of the stairway is the Vajra.

 

Accessible, Acceptable White Water Rafting: Nepal Style !

Rafting in Trishuli River

Legend has it that the powerful Hindu god Shiva drove his trident (Trishuli) into the ground, thus creating three springs from which the river Trushuli flows. Named after Shiva’s trident, this bordering river between Tibet and Nepal is the perfect river for a great experience alone, with friends, or with the family to become immersed in white water rafting at its most enjoyable. Known as the Tsangpo in Tibet, the river flows through Tsang, meaning Tibet, to the west of Lhasa.

 

The Trishuli is remarkable in that it is accessible from two directions, both easily accessed from Kathmandu or Pokhara to the west. It is a 2 1/2 hour drive from Kathmandu and a 3 hour drive from Pokhara with easy access to the river from several places along the Prithivi Highway. Rafting rental locations can be contacted individually or arrangements can be made through local travel agents, such as Himalayan Dreams, making the day or several days’ experience along the river an easy one with all aspects handled by an agency.

To leave early from Kathmandu is a great experience as the constant din and clamor of motorbikes and people, trucks and cars is subdued and the morning trip across town toward the western heading Prithivi Highway is a nice start to your day. As you climb up and out of the Kathmandu Valley the morning clouds touch the peaks as the sun rises higher into the sky. Traffic picks up a bit as you descend along the highway headed for Pokhara, 160 miles to the west. It is a pleasant drive and at the end of the 2 1/2 hour trip you arrive at the staging area for the start of your journey down the river.

 

Whether a beginner or an experienced rafter, the atmosphere is filled with laughter as more and more people descend upon the area to get their life jackets and helmets fitted on them. People are assigned groups and you descend stairs and walk, single file toward the river. I was pleasantly surprised to see such expanses of sandy beach along the river which flows rapidly toward India and eventually into the Ganges River many miles away. There are several of these rafting venues that have two day excursions where you spend the night in tents and watch the moonrise over the towering mountains and then listen to the roar of the river throughout the night.

 

I was a bit surprised to see so many people gathered along the river’s edge with the large inflatable rafts bobbing up and down behind the river guides who instructed their groups in the fine art of helping to row the raft.

 

Today, however, is a one-way rafting trip and my friend and I are ready for a wonderful adventure along the great Trushuli. Our group is made up of about 20 people, who listen carefully as we are instructed in how to row and what voice signals are given for different situations as the river changes all the time. There are Nepalese, Aussies, Americans ,Brits, and Indians on board and we are truly ready for a great day on the river!

 

We are told by our guide that the oldest person to have taken the rafting trip was in her 90′s. I wondered at her age if she handled the oars like the others as they tend to be a bit heavy. However, I hadn’t much time to think on this as we were soon pushed out into the calmer current of the river and then swept majestically into the more rapid waters. As I looked back at the shore the other rafts were also pushing away from the shore filled with people ready for this white water adventure.

 

The Trushuli is a Grade 3 river and provides a really wonderful experience for rafters of all ages. As we progressed toward each rapid our river guide would indicate what we had to do with the oars. Many times we had to row backwards to keep the raft fairly steady as we surged though rushing water and careened around large boulders imbedded in the river’s bottom.

 

As we progressed down the river many things came into view that I had not expected. The first of several swaying suspension bridges came into view. Several had children looking down on us, waving madly as we rushed under the swaying structures. On occasion there were other types of bridges that allowed people access to the far side of the river. The most ingenious was a metal box, attached to two large rollers that ran along a wire cable suspended across the river. People would pull on the cable and the boxlike gondola, if you will, moved across the river at a very slow pace. I would have found it very hard to even get into it let alone traverse the river in this particular trans-river apparatus.

 

Another surprise! As we moved down the river we would catch glimpses of the highway that followed the river for most of our trip. On one occasion we saw people who had parked their cars and watched as we negotiated some of the more arduous rapids that the river had to offer.

 

As the day warmed and the rafts moved down the river one aspect of the trip that was not talked about before we started began to come into play. And it was play! In each raft were plastic buckets and as the rafts now began to overtake each other the buckets were used to scoop up water and toss onto the passengers of the other rafts. It became a fun way to interact, not only with the people on your own raft but with the passengers of the other rafts! With shrieks of laughter and screams of passengers being soaked, we moved along the Trushuli like a bunch of teenagers at a beach party.

 

At one point my friend, who was perched on the raft’s side, near the front of the raft, was literally tossed into the air as we hit a rather large rapid and was thrown into the river. Although he appeared OK and he did have on a life jacket, he lost his dark glasses and later confessed to me that he had hit a large boulder and had a sore shoulder as a result. Of course he should have been inside the raft, but it was a lesson well learned by the rest of us on following the instructions of our guide.

 

It was in the early afternoon that we finally slipped into a smooth flowing part of the river and we beached our rafts at the river’s edge. In several tents a wonderful lunch was prepared for us and people perched on rocks and along the river enjoying the repast and the wonderful white water rafting experience.

 

We were met at the lunch site by our driver. We returned to the starting point and left our gear, life jacket and helmet, and began the journey back to Kathmandu. Tired, but invigorated by this day long excursion, we were now able to say we had done the White Water Rafting in Nepal! This accessible day long trip is remarkably easy to do and the experience for all who take this adventure will be memories of a day well spent on the Trushuli, amid the Himalayas, in Nepal!

 

Do you know the way to Kathmandu ?

You almost have to be a detective to follow clues and tips to find a manageable route to the eclectic environs of the Kathmandu Valley and the myriad sites that compel people from around the world to visit!

 

My location on the west coast in California makes it an almost 10,000 miles journey to get back and forth to Nepal and it is not an easy journey. In my 10 visits to Nepal over the past 5 years I have tried several ways to approach the Himalayan country and although money has dictated much, it is the ease and convenience that I am looking for when I travel that far that dictates my eventual choice of routes.

 

The two major departure cities are San Francisco (SFO) and Los Angeles (LAX) in California. From my home base in Sacramento (SMF), both are some distance from where I live and I must either drive, leave my car and fly out of San Francisco, or I must fly to Los Angeles and depart from there. I have done it both ways and there are great differences. Because San Francisco is closer to me one would suspect that the trip would be much easier flying from there. Not so. Because one is restricted to airlines that serve that routing and airport you are restricted to using airlines that fly indirectly to Kathmandu. This means that the airlines flying from SFO usually stop once or twice before one is on a plane headed for Kathmandu.

 

Service on all of the airlines I have traveled is comparable. The food is good, the service smooth and reliable and the flights have been excellent. The trouble arises when one is going to Nepal. If I am flying out of San Francisco I have chosen two different carriers and both offered good prices for the traveler, good service and good food. My first experience was with Philippine Airlines. Home based in Manila the routing took me to Manila, a 7 hour layover, then to Bangkok and then on to Kathmandu on Thai Air. The reverse was true coming home. At that time the old airport in Bangkok was being used and if I chose to stay over it was very convenient. The new airport, modern and sleek, is an hour from town and presents a hassle if you have a long layover. A taxi ride is necessary from the airport on arrival and I found that most hotels offer service back to the airport if you have stayed overnight or longer.

 

My next experience was with Korean Airlines. Again, good prices, good service and good food, but a very different experience. A long flight to Inchon/Seoul and a 2 hour layover before boarding a plane for Singapore. Here the flight to Kathmandu was about 12 hours away the next day. The airport in Singapore is big and clean and efficient. You can grab a hotel room right in the terminal which is a welcome break from the flying. Lastly, a 5 hour flight on Dragon Air into Kathmandu to complete the trip. Interestingly enough I had to return a couple of days early and I did not know whether I would have a room or not in Singapore. Luck was with me and I got the last room in the hotel.

 

These two trips were exhausting and although it is a long flight to and from the west coast it beats another routing that goes in the other direction. From Sacramento I would fly to Houston, a long layover and then fly to Doha, the capitol of Qatar, in the Middle East. A long layover again and then into Kathmandu after a 7 hour plane ride. The trip takes 3 days and although I have never been tempted to do this route, I may one day just for the experience.

The most direct and efficient of all routing is with Thai Air Lines out of Los Angeles. Friendly and efficient both on the ground and in the air, Thai offers for me the most direct way to get to Nepal. Out of Los Angeles at about 9:30P.M. you arrive in Bangkok at 6 A.M., in time for the airport shops and eating facilities to be opening. After about a 4 hour wait you are on your way again, using Thai, into Kathmandu after a 3 hour flight. I fly from Sacramento to Los Angeles on a United Air Lines commuter jet, a Star Alliance partner with Thai Air, and my baggage is sent all the way through to Kathmandu from Sacramento. This means no hassle in Los Angeles and I have not yet had any problem with my luggage being in Kathmandu after all those flights and hours.

 

Thai Air offers great service, wonderful food, in seat entertainment and flight attendants who strive to see that everything is done to make your time on board as comfortable as they can. Do I know the way to Kathmandu? Yes, and it is my hope that this little bit of information helps you when you next go to visit Nepal.

 

You gotta ride an Elephant !

With those words echoing in my ears it was with some trepidation that I found myself heading for Chitwan National Park some 5 hours drive away from Kathmandu. The park, 932 square kilometers of preserve, is hemmed in between the Narayani and Rapti rivers, providing a natural barrier. I had done some research and realized that this one of a kind area was teeming with all sorts of natural wildlife. Aside from wild elephants, and yes, tame ones to ride, there are some 100 nocturnal Bengal tigers, Asian rhinos, 526 species of birds, 49 amphibians and reptiles, 4 distinct species of deer, and some 600 different plants that thrive in this park.

 

I had not thought much about the park setting and was only mildly curious about reaching our accommodations within the park itself. I had been told we would get to the lodging by boat and a short walk into the park. After a fairly smooth drive we turned off the main highway and traveled several miles along a dirt road which passed by houses and through fields of rice and across shallow streams until we reached the river and the waiting boat.

 

It was here that the trip began to really grab my full attention. Since I had been to Disneyland and had traveled on their idea of river safari boats I had, tucked away in the back of my mind, a picture of a modern craft with a striped canvas-roofed awning, a diesel-powered engine and several workers to help with the luggage and so forth. It had been raining and the river was high, wide, and very fast. To my surprise the river craft was a long, wooden craft, propelled by two men with long poles, which sat very low in the water. Of course my reaction was internalized by thinking I can’t get into that thing. In my mind’s eye I could picture ancient drawings of prehistoric men in wooden logs floating down rivers, some to their doom. With these pictures in my mind and wondering how I get across to dry land, I externalized this situation with laughter!

My traveling companions were laughing also, and as we were helped into this craft with all the luggage and several other people, I knew then that I would never survive this trip! As we were poled out into the river we moved north along the bank and slowly we proceeded out into the main channel where the current propelled the boat in a southerly direction. The oarsmen had traveled in an arc and allowed the current to move us downstream and across to another spot where we were off-loaded with our luggage. The oarsmen took the luggage and following them we moved off into the lush jungle along a path toward the lodge.

 

The lodge itself was very much like one sees in movies of Africa; thatched roof dwellings, clustered together with a dining area, lecture area, and plenty of covered and screen enclosed areas to just sit and relax. We were greeted by a Guest Relations Officer who informed us of the rules, times for meals, gave us our bungalow keys and let us know the times for the elephant rides, the bird watching group with a guide and other activities from lectures to visiting the elephant pens. It was decided that we would take an elephant ride that afternoon.

Now elephants had appeared in my life in circus performances, zoos and of course parades on occasion. There were two elephants, each with their trainer, to transport two groups on the ride that afternoon.

 

One had to climb up onto a platform and step down onto the back of the animal where four could sit on a rather uncomfortable sort of a saddle. Our elephant, with three of us in tow, plus the trainer started off at a leisurely pace along paths well worn by elephants before. It was not the most comfortable of rides and I wondered about all of those well-to-do rajahs of old riding in houdahs that were supposedly very plush and comfortable!

 

I don’t know whether it is my luck, but for some reason the elephant we were on decided it did not want to go exactly where the trainer wanted and we found ourselves pushing through small groves of trees with this animal pushing aside large shrubs and wading through thick grass much to the annoyance of the trainer. This went on for about an hour and at the end of our journey we all were very happy to climb down and stretch our legs. Although we were looking for rhinos and tigers on the elephant ride we saw neither on our safari.

Chitwan is a marvelous place to relax and enjoy the many outdoors activities from bird watching to elephant rides and more.

 

If you get to Nepal it is almost a must to take the opportunity to visit and enjoy the wonders of this marvelous National Park!

 

Tourism comes home to Nepal !

Tourists! For thousands of years people have travelled away from their homes to distant lands to enjoy the natural or man-made wonders of the world. The ancient Greeks traveled to holy places scattered across Greece and then moved on into the areas of new colonies to explore the environments away from the mountainous confines of their island home. The Romans carried it even farther with actual groups of citizens banding together and traversing the excellent Roman road system to the wilds of modern day Scotland and to the shores of the Mediterranean and the wonders of ancient Greece and Egypt. By the First Century AD road houses and inns lined Roman roads across the empire to take care of the adventurous Roman tourist.

 

With the advent of modern transportation, peoples from all over the world criss cross the globe seeking adventure, respite from the modern world and just to “see” new and different places. Retired men and women, seekers of adventure, scaling the mountains, those in search of spiritual renewal, men and women from all walks of life now become the modern “tourists”.

Nepal has become a “new” and different destination, drawing thousands to its cities and the magnificence of its varied terrain and way of life. The mountains which soar toward the heavens call to those who want adventure and the environment beckons people who are concerned for the planets preservation. Raging rivers for white water rafting, and deep gorges which beg to have the Bungee jumpers meet the challenge. By its proximity to China and Tibet on the north and east and the vast, sprawling lands of India to the south, Nepal has been in the past and is today a magnet for the modern “tourist”.

 

Anyone who has been in the tourist business knows that to maintain an active and loyal following and to bring on board new clients, today’s modern agency must meet even stricter demands from the travelers of today. An agency that fails to meet the demands of the modern traveler will soon fade away. One need not look very far to see the disastrous results of an agency failing as it did to XL tours out of London. 90,000 passengers stranded and the black mark on travel and tour groups will remain for a while.

 

Can tourists be difficult? Yes, of course they can. Anyone who deals with the public knows that there are as many different types of tourists with as many different types of problems. Agencies must be flexible and able to create new approaches to problems that arise and always keep in mind that the tourist is the staple of the business and must be handled in a professional and supportive way. New agencies that forget that simple idea will fail.

In addition, a wide variety and selection of tours should be made available as the clients in the tourist industry need to be able to select and also to alter any given tour to meet their needs. The package tour does not offer this flexibility, and although many travelers prefer to travel in this way, a great majority of the people traveling in Nepal want a more tailored and creative selection to meet their needs .

 

The interaction between tourist and agent should always be one of mutual respect and a professional approach on the part of the agent. As tourism grows in Nepal, many new agencies will appear on the horizon. Those who offer a selection of packages, operate in a professional manner and keep the client’s needs uppermost in their mind, will help the industry to grow and prosper as Nepal becomes a destination of choice and a place where the traveler can rely on experienced, professional and caring help to fulfill their traveling needs